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Viareggio is both a typical and atypical Italian beach resort. It’s typical in that beaches are well-run, family-friendly but rather regimented. It’s less typical in that there’s life beyond the beach. Nor is it just about being a summer resort - or being seen in the right places. Viareggio makes a good springboard for exploring Versilia, from cycle rides along the coast to drives that reveal the elemental hinterland around Massa and Carrara. For a sense of adventure, explore Carrara and the marble quarries in the Apuan Alps. This is wilderness Tuscany, a stark contrast to the coastal strip. For a cultural foray, turn away from the coast toward the closest art cities. Foremost among these are Pisa to the south, or Lucca, Pistoia or Florence to the east.

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