City backstreets walk

Focusing on the major monuments shouldn’t blind you to the beauty of the backstreets. Here, the city history unfurls like a medieval banner. Walkable Siena has well-preserved walls and inviting gateways. Wind through a tangle of medieval streets and stumble across secret courtyards, fountains and surprisingly rural views. Take the countrified lane of Via del Fosso di Sant'Ansano, which runs behind Santa Maria della Scala. Or explore St Catherine’s former home and neighbourhood of Fontebranda (Costa di Sant’Antonio). Stroll to Santa Maria dei Servi to lap up equally moody views and a sublime church. Escape the summer crowds by hugging these backstreets or simply take a thematic walking tour. Everywhere leads back to the Campo, at its most theatrical in the late afternoon, after a day spent in the shadows of the city walls.