San Donato in Poggio

San Donato in Poggio is set in one of the prettiest patches of the Chianti. The hilltop medieval village dominates a ridge separating the Val di Pesa from the Val d’Elsa and enjoys views of olive groves and vineyard-clad hills. This walled, stone-and-brick-built hamlet is tucked into its medieval fortifications. Even if only stretches survive, including two gateways, the street plan remains medieval. A remaining watchtower on the western edge of the hamlet leads to a bell-tower and the atmospheric main square, along with the Gothic church of Santa Maria della Neve and an octagonal well. Given its position as a pawn in the long-running battles between Siena and Florence, San Donato often depended on this well for survival. The Florentine-Romanesque church of San Donato stands by the Porta Senese, the Sienese gateway, a reminder that medieval peace treaties between Siena and Florence were twice signed in this former citadel.

San Donato in Poggio makes a charming base for activities as varied as visiting abbeys and villas or exploring vineyards on a Vespa tour. As well as discovering some of the Chianti’s loveliest wine estates, you could learn how to blend your own wine. Hiking through the vineyards is another temping option. Magical ballooning trips run from neighbouring Tavernelle Val di Pesa. As for culture, consider day trips to San Gimignano, Florence or even Siena.

Tired of museums and madonnas? Head for the wine-producing hills on a Vespa. The rolling slopes are planted with olive groves that shimmer dark green and dusty silver. Spanning the hills between Florence and Siena, Chiantishire is a gentle vision of olive groves, cypresses, vineyards and villa gardens.  This is the perfect terrain for exploring on a Vespa or even a vintage scooter.  A typical Vespa tour will follow the Chianti trail and feature a rustic lunch on a wine estate. Tuck into Tuscan antipasti and red wine. You can even ride pillion with a guide if you think you might overdo it on the Chianti. Iconic and utterly Italian, the Vespa scooter is a fun and authentic way to explore Tuscany.

The scooters are cheerful, colourful, stylish and easy to operate. At Tuscany Scooter Rental, based in Radda in Chianti, the fleet includes Piaggio scooters, red Vespas and even vintage scooters with sidecars. This is the only Vespa rental agency in the heart of the Chianti wine-growing region but is only 13 km north west of Castagnoli. On request, you can book a door-to-door pick-up service from your villa, within a reasonable radius of the rental base. The helpful staff speak Italian, English and French and can assist on route-planning.

As for the itinerary, vary it over a couple of days. Delightfully torn between tradition and creativity - like the contradictory Tuscans themselves - the wine scene allows for a duality between provenance and personality. If you’re interested in important estates that double as castles, abbeys or villas, then there’s a great choice locally. Try the abbey estate of Badia a Coltibuono to the north, or the grand estate of Castello di Brolio to the south.

Also visit a few smaller wineries, where the mood is more hands-on than at grander Tuscan estates. Near Lecchi in Chianti the family-run wine and oil estate of Azienda Agricola Casanuova di Ama is homely and hard to leave. The tour may well be with the owner, Daniela, and include a light lunch. Also close to Lecchi is the Castello di Ama winery, perfect for combining with a contemporary art and sculpture tour of the grounds. Just south, slightly closer to Vagliagli, are the wine estates of Dievole and Castello di Selvole, both of which have recommended restaurants.

Panzano, just east of San Donato, is the place to indulge in a passion for Tuscan meat, including Florentine T-bone steak. This Tuscan bastion is the meaty preserve of Dario Cecchini, a cleverly eccentric celebrity butcher with a mini empire in these parts. No one can wield a bloody meat cleaver better, still less while reciting Dante. Part butcher, part showman, Dario keeps his audience entertained as well as over-fed.

Work up an appetite by strolling along the walls and admiring the Chianti countryside. Restaurants lining the walls offer views of the Chianti hills and vineyards. Before lunch, call into L’Accademia del Buon Gusto for a wine-tasting with one of Tuscany’s most colourful characters. Stefano Salvadori is a gracious, old-school host who offers free tastings of Tuscan wines, olive oils and vinegars, all the while waxing lyrical about Chianti wines. Expect to leave enlightened, amused and possibly laden down with wine.

The café-lined main square is the place for lapping up the small-town atmosphere and contemplating lunch. With several restaurants in town, all clustered round his famous butcher’s, Cecchini is still doing a brisk trade. The restaurants are fairly priced so there’s no sense of being caught in a tourist trap. The winning format appeals to most visitors, as does the conviviality and showbiz side. T-bone steak predominates, at least in L’Officina della Bistecca. For any beef-loving Tuscan, bistecca alla fiorentina – a huge, tender T-bone steak, grilled over an open fire and seasoned with nothing more than crushed peppercorns, salt, and a hint of garlic and olive oil, served very rare – is the ultimate steak. Bear in mind that all is not bleak for vegetarians: there are strong meat-free menus for those of a more squeamish disposition. Basic wine is included in the price but you can also bring your own.

After lunch, work off the calories by walking upto the Pieve di San Leonino, Panzano’s loveliest church, set on a hilltop just outside Panzano. Inside the Romanesque pieve are precious artworks, including della Robbia terracotta tabernacles and a medieval triptych of the Virgin and Child.


Address: Via XX Luglio, 11, 50022 Panzano In Chianti (Fi)
Tel: 055 852020
Web: www.dariocecchini.com

Just north of San Donato is Badia a Passignano, a moody hamlet centred on a Benedictine monastery. Known as the Badia di Passignano, it was founded by the Vallambrosan order in 1049 but is now equally famous for being a wine estate owned by the Antinori wine barons. If you’d like to indulge in a leisurely wine tasting, abbey tour and dinner, consider leaving the driving to Daniele Mogni at Chianti Taxi. A customised route can be created for you, taking in several other lesser-known estates. Make a full day of it by tailoring the day to your tastes, with a visit to a Pecorino farm, olive oil mill or hand-painted ceramics workshops. Leave the logistics to a true Chianti local.

Badia di Passignano can, of course, be reached under your own steam. All around are vineyards belonging to the Antinori Chianti estates. This particular Antinori wine estate is given over to vineyards of Sangiovese grapes and olive groves. This Florentine-based wine dynasty have been peddling the `nectar of the gods’ in Tuscany since 1385.  Before succumbing to the wine option, spend a bit of time in the fortified abbey where the great Galileo Galilei taught in the 16th century. Pre-book a guided tour with one of the handful of remaining Vallambrosan monks to admire a refectory decorated with a magnificently restored Last Supper by Domenico Ghirlandaio.

If more earthly concerns are on your mind, then the abbey can also sustain you. The Antinori’s Michelin-starred restaurant occupies part of the vaulted abbey, with the so-called `historical cellars’ located immediately below the abbey. At the estate you can sample Antinori signature wines, whether Chianti Classico wines or Super Tuscans. Famous names are Tignanello, Guado al Tasso, and Solaia, as well as Chianti Classico Riserva Badia a Passignano. Book an Antinori wine-tasting and cellar tour, possibly even an oil-tasting, followed by lunch or dinner in their onsite fine-dining restaurant. L’Osteria di Passignano or their far simpler Trattoria della Fonte in a farmhouse nearby. Instead, L’Antica Scuderia is the best dining option for families or anyone fancying a pizza.

Chianti Taxi. T: (+39) 389 8160050 & http://www.chiantitaxi.com
This reliable Panzano-based transport service offers day-long private tours around the Chianti.

Badia di Passignano (Passignano Abbey): T: 055 8072341 (English); 055 8071171 (Italian)

Antinori Passignano estate: T: 055 8071278 & http://www.osteriadipassignano.com & http://www.antinori.it

Badia di Passignano, Localita Badia a Passignano, 50028 Tavernelle Val di Pesa

If weary of wine estates or in search of romantic memories, consider an amazing balloon ride over the Chianti. This works well for most people, from couples to families. Being on board a hot air balloon should provide a magical new perspective on Tuscany along with great photo opportunities.

Very probably you will float above the hills around San Donato or Castellina in Chianti and recognize Castellina’s tower and the walled medieval fortress. That said, the precise route isn’t decided until the balloon launch as it all depends on the weather, especially the winds. Given the strategic location of the launch site in Tavernelle Val di Pesa, you should be able to admire the highlights of central and southern Chianti. This might range from Tuscan castles and Renaissance villas to aerial views of San Gimignano and the prettiest Chianti hamlets and wine estates. Certainly, there will be memorable views of silvery olive groves, vineyards and rolling hills. On a clear day, if the balloon flies high enough, you may glimpse the Mediterranean sea reflecting the morning sun.

The launch site is Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, in the western Chianti, west of San Donato in Poggio. The hot air balloon rides take off in the early morning due to the ideal air conditions found at that time. Ballooning is never cheap (around € 250 per person, with a basket holding from four to ten people) but it makes for an unforgettable experience. For more, consult Balloon in Tuscany, the operators.


Tel: 055 8077940
Web: https://www.balloonintuscany.com/en/chianti-balloon-flights/

Enjoy a scenic morning’s drive to Greve, the capital of the Florentine Chianti and, after a stroll around the town centre, head for the hills on a short hike to medieval Montefioralle. In Greve, potter around the porticoed Piazza Matteotti, the main square. Glance at the neo-Renaissance Town Hall, the Palazzo del Comune, and the parish church of Santa Croce, with its neo-classical facade. Drop into Bistro Falorni (Piazza Matteotti 71) for a welcome glass of Chianti Classico in preparation for your hike. Wine is big business in Greve and has been for centuries.

Perched on a hill just outside Greve is medieval Montefioralle, a tiny, walled `borgo.’ This hidden gem is just five minutes’ drive west of Greve but makes a delightful walk. From Greve, it’s a short, steep but rewarding 2km hike ending in wonderful views. Start in via di San Francesco off via Roma. The winding route leads to the walled settlement, once the feudal castle. Although no longer a military outpost, Montefioralle is still fortified. The walls were once octagonal, bounded by four gates, parts of which survive.

Following the tides of Tuscan history, the village has belonged to the Ricasoli, Benci, Gherardini and Vespucci families. The village was the birthplace of Amerigo Vespucci (1415-1512), who followed Columbus’ route to America. The explorer’s ancestral home lies along the main street, and is indicated by his coat of arms, incorporating a wasp. Wander along narrow alleys and secret passageways past well-preserved stone-built houses. The village is surmounted by the church of Santo Stefano but panoramic views also await in the local inns.

Unless you’ve brought a picnic from Greve, opt for lunch in a Montefioralle inn, such as the romantic La Castellana or the simpler La Taverna del Guerrino. La Taverna is a Slow Food haunt but looks rather like a `hole-in-the-wall’ place, despite being blessed with a panoramic terrace. Typical dishes include Tuscan grills (cooked on a wood-fired grill) and pasta dishes. The best seasonal pasta dishes are tagliatelle al cinghiale (with wild boar), tagliatelle al tartufo fresco (with fresh truffles) and tagliatelle ai funghi porcini freschi (with fresh ceps). Alternatively, have a late lunch back in Bistro Falorni on the main square in Greve.


Address: La Taverna del Guerrino,
Via di Montefioralle Centro 39,
Localita Montefioralle,
50022
Greve in Chianti
Tel: 055 853106
Web: https://www.ilguerrino.com/

The Renaissance villa estate of Vignamaggio is linked to great art. Set east of San Donato, the wine estate is delightful enough to have starred as a film set, based on Shakespeare’s Much Ado About Nothing. The romantic villa lords over its Italianate gardens and vine-clad hills. The serene landscape supposedly inspired Leonardo da Vinci. The castle was remodelled as a patrician villa in the 14th century and belonged to the Florentine Gherardini family. Monna Lisa Gheradini, better-known as Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, married into this family in the 14th century.  The villa boasts a crenellated tower, 16th-century corbelled arches and courtyard, with the top of the tower remodelled in Neo-Gothic style.

Centred on the lovely Renaissance villa, this tenuta is an established 65-hectare wine estate, and one of the oldest in Tuscany, dating back to 1404. The award-winning wines range from Chianti Classico and trendy Super Tuscans to a fresh Rosé, a Cabernet Franc, Vin Santo and grappa. Orchards, herb gardens, wheat-fields and thirty hectares of olive groves reflect the estate’s commitment to biodiversity. The villa grounds showcase Italianate, Renaissance-style gardens, complete with cypresses, clipped box parterres and rose-draped statuary. French owner and architect Patrice Taravella has recently spruced up the grounds, adding orchards, classical pool fountains and pergolas.

Vignamaggio now offers garden and cellar tours, as well as a free wine-tasting. The farm-to-table Ristorante Monna Lisa means much of the produce comes from the surrounding organic estate. Wine-pairing lunches are on offer, as are guided tours of the estate, ending in a sunset dinner. The seasonal menu celebrates Tuscan produce, from vegetable platters drizzled in home-produced olive oil to pasta with pistachio and garden-mint pesto. The pork and cured meats come from the estate's happy herd of cinta senese pigs.


Address: Via Petriolo 5
50022
Greve in Chianti
Tel: 055 854661 / 055 8546624
Web: www.vignamaggio.com

For all its history, Tuscany remains at the forefront of the wine industry, which is still dominated by many of the original noble families.  “The know-how in the vineyards today compared to even a decade ago is phenomenal,” claims Lamberto Frescobaldi, whose Florentine family has been in the wine business for 700 years.

The main centres in Chianti Classico are Panzano, Greve, Castellina, Gaiole, Fonterutoli and Radda. Easily accessible off the picturesque route SS222, the grandest, castle-like estates have often been run by the same families since medieval times, as is the case with the aristocratic Antinori, Frescobaldi, Mazzei and Ricasoli dynasties. Our recommended wine estates are featured in each of the individual Chianti guides.

Local dining tends to be rustic but robust, nourishing the soul and the spirit as much as the body. Legumes are a mainstay, where cannellini, white kidney beans, add a smooth texture. Yet in both Panzano and Greve meat dishes take centre stage, partly thanks to the presence of excellent butchers.

This is a friendly, family-run inn set in the charming, stone-built heart of the village of San Donato in Poggio. On a summer’s day, sit outside and enjoy classic, frills-free Tuscan home-cooking. The mid-priced menu features such dishes as hearty ribollita soup, roast meats, ravioli in a truffle sauce, or pappardelle all’anatra, pasta with duck. Desserts include tiramisu, panna cotta and cantuccini.


Address: Via del Giglio 43, San Donato in Poggio, 50028 Tavernelle Val di Pesa
Tel: 055 8072900
Web: https://anticatrattorialatoppa.business.site/

This unpretentious Panzano wine bar feels like a hidden spot, with its panoramic terrace and views over olive groves and vineyards. Enjoy a fine selection of regional wines, ideally paired with a light lunch based on typical Tuscan dishes.


Address: Via Santa Maria 22, 50022 Panzano in Chianti
Tel: 055 852603

The clue is in the name: this Panzano place is a meat-lover’s dream and the temple of Florentine T-bone steak. Although not for the faint-hearted, this Tuscan steakhouse is a memorable experience and is a place beloved by top Italian chefs. Here, the butcher Dario Cecchini is the local legend. Diners sit at a long, communal table and tuck into a meat feast, prepared on an open grill. This includes a succulent 7cm-thick steak. The vast fixed menu (itemised online) costs €50 (vegetarian version too), including wine, coffee and grappa, and with two sittings, 8pm for dinner, or 1pm for lunch. It’s best to book.


Address: Via XX Luglio 11, 50022 Panzano in Chianti
Tel: 055 852020
Web: www.dariocecchini.com

Just north of Panzano is Badia a Passignano, with its Benedictine abbey and Antinori wine estate.  Foodies are spoilt for choice with options. If you resist the Michelin-starred Antinori gastrodome, then try this elegant, summery spot with a terrace overlooking the vineyards. The restaurant occupies a former staging post for passing knights. The cooking is modern Tuscan, including Tuscan crostini, lamb with stuffed artichokes, or game in the form of hare, pheasants and wild boar. Grilled meat is very much on the menu, including T-bone steak. Prices range from medium to high, also depending on the wine selection. Good, inexpensive pizzas are also on offer in this child-friendly spot.


Address: Via di Passignano 17, Localita Badia a Passignano, 50028 Tavernelle Val di Pesa
Tel: 055 8071623
Web: www.ristorolanticascuderia.it

Set in the pretty village of Montefioralle outside Greve, this small, romantic, family-run inn serves robust, mid-priced Tuscan dishes and a full range of Chianti wines. Local favourites include crostini with chicken-liver paté, grilled meats and beef stew. Specialities include the truffle and mushroom dishes, including tagliatelle or bruschetta with truffles. Lap up the views from the hillside terrace, featuring swaying cypresses, silvery olive groves and endless vineyards. It’s best to book, especially for the terrace.


Address: Via di Montefioralle, Localita Montefioralle, 50022 Greve in Chianti
Tel: 055 853134
Web: www.ristorante-lacastellana.it

Shopping in San Donato in Poggio is limited so for wider shopping options, head to neighbouring Panzano, Castellina, Radda and, of course, Florence.  Panzano offers Chianti foodstuffs and, of course, cured meats. The Sunday morning market sells everything from fruit and vegetables to cheese, roast chicken, shoes and clothes. For even more choice, go to Greve or Castellina.

As a change from wine, shop locally for tasty, amusingly named beers (such as `Alky Donkey’) from light Blanche to Belgian-style ales, all hand-crafted artisanal beers, brewed locally.


Address: Via Senese 148, San Donato in Poggio, Tavernelle Val di Pesa 50028
Tel: (+39) 338 4584387
Web: www.birrificiomath.com

This bakery in neighbouring Panzano produces a good range of biscuits. Its best-known are the cantucci from Panzano. These cantucci include the classic version of the crunchy almond biscuits but also variants, including ones made with pistachio, coffee or chocolate.

In the ancient abbey of Badia a Passignano, just north of San Donato, do a wine-tasting and shop for other Antinori produce, such as the wine dynasty’s olive oil. The Bottega is a showcase to Antinori wines, along with upmarket foodstuffs from Procacci, the renowned Florentine delicatessen that is now owned by the Antinori. Tasty souvenirs include Procacci jams and truffled delicacies. You can also sample and buy wines from a range of Antinori estates, from solid Chianti Classico wines to acclaimed, pricey Super Tuscans.


Address: Via di Passignano 33, Badia a Passignano, Localita Badia di Passignano, 50028 Tavernelle Val di Pesa
Tel: 055 8071278
Web: www.osteriadipassignano.com

For a complete change of scene, designer shopping fans could head to the luxury outlets in the Valdarno area. The Mall Firenze is a thirty-minute drive east from Florence, on the Pontassieve road. There’s also a direct shuttle bus there from Siena. After browsing the designer brands, end your shopping experience in the Mall’s Gucci café and restaurant.


Address: The Mall, Via Europa 8, 50066 Leccio Reggello
Tel: 055 8657775
Web: www.themall.it

In Panzano, this is a wine shop with a difference thanks to its entertaining and effervescent owner. The lasting feeling is one of meeting a friend who cares passionately about both wine and Tuscany and wishes to share his knowledge. Multilingual Stefano Salvadori is a gracious, old-school host who entertains and informs about the wine wonderland that is Chianti. Stefano offers free tastings of Tuscan wines, olive oils and vinegars, all the while waxing lyrical about Chianti wines, Slow Food, Tuscan life, traditions, art, politics, the universe and everything. The wine shop is not called `The Academy of Good Taste’ by chance. Visitors leave uplifted and usually laden down with both wine and new knowledge.

This welcoming Chianti wine estate in Barberino Val d’Elsa, west of San Donato, is relatively small and authentic, with an informal wine-tasting accompanied by cured meats and cheeses. The wines range from Chianti Classico to Super Tuscans and Vin Santo, which can all be shipped abroad.


Address: Via di Cortine 5, 50021 Barberino Val d'Elsa
Tel: 055 8075028
Web: http://www.fattoriacasasola.it/en/

This award-winning, family-run wine-estate in San Donato features gorgeous tasting rooms overlooking the hills and family villa. The 270-hectare estate also includes an olive oil mill and L’Antica Fornace, a traditional terracotta-making factory, using the same techniques as in the terracotta heartland of neighbouring Impruneta. The estate even makes a wine aged in terracotta amphorae. The Nuti family prides itself on their Tuscan sense of humour and lack of airs and graces, even if they now own the magnificent villa that once belonged to the Torrigiani marquesses.

https://www.fattoriamontecchio.com/en/chianti-estate/the-furnace/


Address: Strada Montecchio 4, San Donato in Poggio, 50028 Tavernelle Val di Pesa
Tel: 055 8072907
Web: www.fornaccemontecchio.it

Unless there’s a festival on, parking is usually straightforward, with plenty of spots below the main street. Parking options include via Senese and via dei Baluardi.

Note that most Tuscan towns operate a strict ZTL system, a Limited Traffic Zone. This means that the Centro Storico (historic centre) is essentially closed to traffic, particularly for non-residents. Cars will need to be left outside the walls. That said, the Chianti towns are small so present far less trouble than such cities as Florence and Siena. Parking tips: for advice on individual Chianti places, please see our individual Destination guides, including those on Greve, Panzano, Castellina, Radda, Gaiole and Castelnuovo Beradenga.

Advice on ZTLs: You may see other cars crossing the ZTL boundary (Limited Traffic Zone) and assume you can proceed. Not so. The drivers crossing into the ZTL zone will probably be locals and have residents’ permits. Visitors do not so are liable to fines. Zones are monitored by cameras, so tickets are issued immediately and automatically, as soon as (and each time) the car crosses the ZTL boundary.

San Donato in Poggio is around 32 km from Florence and 46 km from Siena so San Gimignano, Florence and even Siena make for accessible day trips, as well as the Chianti, of course.

San Donato’s popularity is party linked to its ease of access as just off the main Florence-Siena highway, known as the Raccordo Autostradale, or RAR. The hamlet is reached via the Strada Provinciale, the SP 101.

The Chianti can be delightful driving country. Its appeal lies in the rolling countryside, array of vineyards and olive groves, relatively quiet roads, and the mix of small medieval towns. Public transport in the Chianti is rather sporadic so car hire makes the most sense if you want to explore the area properly. Driving in the Chianti can be deeply enjoyable experience, especially with a detailed map or GPS navigator to hand. For a great day out, try a customised tour with Chianti Taxi.

Greve, the main gateway from the north, lies on the SR222, commonly known as the Chiantigiana, about 30 km south of Florence and 40 km north of Siena. From Greve, the scenic Chiantigiana meanders through the Chianti, passing through most of the typical villages. This is a charming route to take by day. At night, however, you might encounter wild boars, porcupines or deer crossing the road.

From Florence and the Chiantigiana head towards Greve, then further south to Radda and Gaiole.  Or pick up the Florence-Siena Raccordo Autostradale highway (known as the RA) and take the San Donato in Poggio exit before following the SP101, which becomes the SP76.

From Siena, leave town on the fast Florence-Siena Raccordo Autostradale highway (known as the RA), taking the Badesse exit for the SP 119, which becomes the SR222, the Chiantigiana. Or take the quieter, slower route from Siena: take the SR2, which becomes the more tranquil SR222 until Castellina and then onto Radda and Gaiole.

By private tour: Chianti Taxi, a reliable Panzano-based transport service offers day-long private tours around the Chianti and beyond. These are customised tours that can take in everything from olive oil mills and wine estates to Pecorino farms and hand-painted ceramics. With his comfortable minivan, owner Daniele Mogni has the inside track on what you can do in the Chianti. It’s worth splashing out for a day so you can relax and drink your fill at the wine estates.

Chianti Taxi. T: (+39) 389 8160050 & www.chiantitaxi.com

The Chianti by train: this is not an easy place to reach by rail. The train service barely touches Chianti's attractions, which is part of the reason why the area is so peaceful. The main Chianti station is Castellina in Chianti, which is on the Siena-Florence line but you need to change trains at Empoli.

The Chianti by bus: Buses connect Florence to Greve and Panzano but end there. These buses often provide a more useful service than the trains but the confusing 365 bus service (T: 800373760, freephone only & www.acvbus.it) still means that bus schedules are not always convenient and also operate a limited service on Sunday. Buses also connect Siena and Castellina: a Tiemme bus service (T: 0577 204111 & www.tiemmespa.it) operates around 7 services a day.  Buses also connect Castellina and Radda: a Tiemme bus service (T: 0577 204111 & www.tiemmespa.it). Buses also connect Siena and Gaiole: a Tiemme bus service (T: 0577 204111 & www.tiemmespa.it).

On your bike: The Chianti is a lovely place to explore by bike. The combination of romantic Tuscan scenery and challenging gravel roads is what makes it enjoyable. The cycling races in the region also attract big crowds. Whether as a spectator or a participant, L’Eroica is worth following. This renowned amateur event that allows cyclists from around the world to experience the region while riding classic bikes.

The parking in Gaiole is outside the town centre on the Strada Provinciale 408 or in the car park on via Marconi. Note that most Tuscan towns operate a strict ZTL system, a Limited Traffic Zone. This means that the Centro Storico (historic centre) is essentially closed to traffic, particularly for non-residents. Cars will need to be left outside the walls. That said, the Chianti towns are small so present far less trouble than such cities as Florence and Siena.