Eating & Drinking

This is a seriously foodie area, with hearty cuisine matched by Sienese regional wines ranging from the simpler Rosso di Montalcino to the more structured Brunello di Montalcino. Robust peasant dishes are popular, such as zuppa di fagioli, bean soup, crostini with chicken liver, tagliatelle with truffles, or homemade pici pasta with meaty sauces. 

The Sienese also have a sweet tooth, and pastries have their own saint watching over them, San Lorenzo (St Lawrence). Panforte, a rich, filling, fruit, nut and honey cake, dates back to 1205, and is often eaten accompanied by sweet Vin Santo. Panpepato, a spicier version, pre-dates it. The delicacy was originally the preserve of Sienese nuns, who guarded their secret recipes, which were also a source of revenue. When footsore, retreat to an historic café to sample the best pastries - see Shopping. Also see Eating and Dining in Montepulciano, Pienza, Val d’Orcia.

Just off the Campo, this retro, gourmet inn serves light, playful takes on Tuscan classics. This reliable, upmarket restaurant is set in an old-world pharmacy and herbalist's, with an authentic dark-wood and marble interior. The locals appreciate the antipasti and pasta, along with the rabbit and pigeon dishes. The wine list includes the owners’ wine and oil from their Montalcino estate.

Address: Via del Porrione 33, 53100 Siena
Web: www.osterialelogge.it

In terms of design, the interior is classic Tuscan rustic-elegant style, with exposed brick walls, just off the Campo. Instead, the dishes are distinctly creative and international, with an exceptional wine list to match. Run by an owner-chef, this pricey fine-dining spot serves inventive dishes, such as soup with cherries and prawns. Be prepared for culinary surprises.

Address: Via del Porrione 28, 53100 Siena

This romantic restaurant adjoins the medieval city walls. The main (medieval) dining room is far better than the musty vaulted Etruscan caverns, which are much like dining in an Etruscan tomb. The menu is Tuscan with a twist. Starters include Tuscan cured meats or Pecorino cheese Soufflé served with Chianti Classico wine reduction. Florentine steak, funghi porcini risotto or wild boar with roast vegetables might follow. In season, the truffle-tasting menu features truffles from the `Crete senesi’, the moonscape south of Siena. Depending on the dish, menus are mid-priced or above.

Address: Via Franciosa 25- 29, 53100 Siena
Web: www.osteriadadivo.it

This good-value inn and wine bar is about the mood as much as the food. Bare-brick walls set the tone for a place that incorporates a medieval tower. The inn is essentially laidback and welcoming, with a traditional Tuscan menu. Regulars come for filling antipasti, pasta, grills and Tuscan `Chianina’ steak. Another popular dish is pici al ragu, meat sauce with the chunky spaghetti favoured in Siena. The inn prides itself on not imposing a cover or service charge.

Address: Via dei Termini 7, 53100 Siena
Web: www.enotecaiterzi.it

This snack bar and delicatessen is handy for a tasty lunch on the run. Set near the Campo, on one of the city’s prettiest squares, it is run by an affable Tuscan foodie.  The specialities include meat or cheese-filled panini, washed down by a glass of wine. Gino’s devotion to cheese means he’s dubbed `King of Parmesan and Pecorino.’  Try the cheeses, from Gorgonzola and Taleggio or go for Sienese salami and porchetta, or artichokes and tomato salad.

Address: Piazza del Mercato 31, 53100 Siena