Montalcino

To outsiders, it’s the prestigious Brunello de Montalcino wine that defines this tiny Tuscan outpost.
From a distance Montalcino looks like a medieval Sienese painting, so little has changed since its heyday. The town is bathed in a russet glow at sunset but changes with the seasons. In spring, the surrounding countryside area is lime green, but yellow rape seed, poppies, sunflowers and grapes soon add different hues. To many, Montalcino is the most Sienese town in the province and the locals are treated with particular respect. Its history is a microcosm of all Sienese history. The town has been known as “the last rock of communal freedom” since its time as the Sienese capital in exile between 1555 and 1559. After the fall of Siena, exiles gathered around the Sienese flag. As a reward, Montalcinesi standard bearers have the pride of place in the procession preceding the Palio in Siena.

Montalcino offers a neoclassical Cathedral, a Gothic loggia, a Romanesque church and myriad alleys - but in the end it’s the medieval mood, the fortress and wine that lodge in the memory.

Also known as La Rocca, this magnificent Sienese bastion finally fell to the Florentines in 1555. Today it’s a citadel that sums up Montalcino, from wine to wide vistas and freedom. Children can run around the ramparts while parents are plotting a wine-tasting. The approach to the Rocca is through olive groves and the slopes famous for Brunello wine. But the asymmetrical fortress, astride a spur of land, dominates the landscape. From the fortress gardens there is a sense of freedom and boundless space. Climb upto the battlements for views over the Val d’Orcia and Monte Amiata.


Address: Piazzale Fortezza, 53024 Montalcino (SI)
Tel: +39 0577 849211
Web: www.enotecalafortezza.com/

The Fortezza reveals much about military history and medieval warfare - along with a sense of the wealth that wine has brought to the region. The fortress is largely empty apart from the Enoteca, the wine shop and wine bar offers wine and food tastings and that charts the full range of prized local wines. The star is Brunello di Montalcino, the first wine in Italy to be given the DOCG denominazione for excellence.


Address: Piazzale Fortezza, 53024 Montalcino (SI)
Tel: +39 0577 849211
Web: https://www.enotecalafortezza.com/I/degustazioni/degustazioni

This Romanesque abbey founded by Charlemagne is set amidst cypresses in a peaceful valley south of Montalcino. Since 2016, the abbey has been home to a group of white-clad Olivetan monks from Monte Oliveto Maggiore, a Benedictine order dating back to 1319. The ancient abbey of Sant’Antimo, built of creamy travertine and set against tree-clad hills, continues to inspire visitors. Designed in the French and Lombard style, the abbey is built from local travertine, which resembles alabaster or onyx. The interior has a translucent quality and, as the light changes, turns luminously golden, white and brown. The Romanesque church reels you in with its carved capitals, its Gregorian chant, its Cistercian spirit. The monks still celebrate Mass in Gregorian chant.


Address: Località Sant’Antimo 222, 53024 Castelnuovo Dell Abate (SI)
Tel: +39 0577 835659
Web: www.antimo.it

The dreamy landscape south of Montalcino means that rambles around Sant’Antimo are among the loveliest in Tuscany. A waymarked trail links the abbey of Sant’Antimo with Montalcino on a gentle, 9.5-kilometre walk that reveals sweeping views over Monte Amiata and the Val d’Orcia. A far more challenging 18-kilometre trail connects the abbey with Bagno Vignoni, via the medieval fortress of Ripa d’Orcia. En route are views of the Brunello vineyards, the soft hills around Pienza and the looming presence of Monte Amiata. A guide is recommended for the longer hike.


Address: Località Sant’Antimo 222, 53024 Castelnuovo Dell Abate (SI)
Tel: +39 0577 835659
Web: www.antimo.it

This posh wine estate is centred on a 12th-century castle with views heavenly enough to justify a visit, even without the prestigious wines. The estate provokes a mixture of admiration, envy and resentment locally as it’s not quite Tuscan enough for Tuscan diehards. Banfi is internationally-minded, innovative, experimental and owned by an Italo-American family. Run with smooth professionalism, the constellation of single vineyards produce highly-rated Brunello wines which can be tasted in L’Enoteca, the wine-tasting rooms at the foot of the castle. Try the intense and opulent Poggio alle Mura Riserva Brunello 2011 - or even stay for lunch (see Eating & Drinking).


Address: Castello di Poggio alle Mura, 53024 Montalcino (SI)
Tel: +39 0577 877700
Web: https://www.banfi.it/en/

A drive east from Montalcino crosses the Val d’Orcia to the spa resort of Chianciano Terme and the appealing day spa of Le Terme Sensoriali.  This so-called “sensory spa” focuses on all the senses and matches imaginative aesthetics with an eclectic approach. The core spa philosophy is that different elements, including water, fire, air and colour are used to awaken the senses. Its classic day circuit includes thermal pools with sauna, steam rooms, jacuzzis and outdoor/indoor pools. Combine the circuit with a specific treatment, ranging from classic massages and facials to treatments based on the healing powers of the thermal springs or esoteric therapies inspired by Ayurveda. For a more old-fashioned spa experience, consider Bagni San Filippo in the Val d’Orcia.


Address: Terme Sensoriali, Parco Acqua Santa, 53042 Chianciano Terme (SI)
Tel: +39 848 800 243
Web: www.termesensoriali.it

If Brunello di Montalcino has a soul, it should be here, in a family-run wine estate that dates back centuries. Ferruccio Biondi Santi is credited with inventing Brunello di Montalcino in the late 1800s. Since then, the estate has continued to lead the way, perfecting new techniques with each successive generation of wine-makers. The wine cellar includes vintages from as far back as 1888. Montalcino means the formidable Brunello di Montalcino as well as Rosso di Montalcino and a stable of other prestigious Tuscan DOCG. Biondi Santi is a doorway into this wine world.


Address: Villa Greppo 183, 53024 Montalcino (Si)
Tel: +39 0577 848087
Web: www.biondisanti.com

If you care about saving the planet and drinking eco-friendly wines, these are two local Montalcino estates that could be visited in tandem.

Casa Raia
Casa Raia estate sits on a promontory beneath medieval Montalcino and is committed to biodiversity and respect for the land. The neatly-planted vineyards cover gentle slopes, spilling down to the valley below. The friendly owners produce a fine organic Brunello but also noted olive oil.

Podere Scarnacuoia 284, 53024 Montalcino (SI)
casaraia.com
+39 0577 84 72 54

Pian Dell’Orino
Framed by cypress-clad hills, close to the Biondi Santi vineyards, this estate is proud of its biodynamic approach to wine-making. Pian dell’Orio is environmentally-friendly without being typically traditional. The estate combines both old-school and high-tech methods to produce top-quality Brunello wine.

Localita Piandellorino 189, 53024 Montalcino (SI)
www.piandellorino.com
+39 0577 849301

The golf course is between Montalcino and Siena, at Murlo on the Siena to Grosseto road, 12 kms from the provincial capital. From the Club House you can even see the towers of Siena looming in the distance. Royal Golf La Bagnaia is a Links-style course, surrounded by gentle hills and wooded valleys. Designed by Robert Trent Jones, the 18-hole course is heavily bunkered, with well-maintained greens and fairways. The golf course is connected to La Bagnaia Resort, complete with a Clarins spa and several restaurants, including a pizzeria and cocktail bar.


Address: Strada Statale 223, Località Bagnaia, 53016 Murlo (SI)
Tel: +39 0577 8187741
Web: https://www.royalgolflabagnaia.com/

When planning a Tuscan trip, check the retro-inspired Nature Train and book ahead, ideally including a journey through Montalcino vineyards or linked to a wine festival. There is usually a good one in April that crosses the gorgeous Val d’Orcia, the Montalcino vineyards and the mysterious clay hillocks of the crete senesi. The vintage (or steam) train service runs from March to December and takes in the best of Siena province – from the Monte Amiata countryside to Chiusi, Siena and the Val d’Orcia. The journey offers a taste of the Tuscan lifestyle, and is often linked to a local festival or food fair, from spring wine fairs to autumn mushroom festivals. Also see the Nature Train guide in Val d’Orcia.


Address: http://www.terresiena.it/it/trenonatura/calendario
Tel: +39 0577 281834/48003

This is an intensely foodie area, with Tuscan cuisine and local vintages taken very seriously, from Brunello di Montalcino to Rosso di Montalcino. Hearty peasant dishes are popular, such as pappa al Pomodoro, a bread, tomato and garlic soup, and crostini misti. Homemade pici pasta is often served with cacio e pepe (sheep's milk cheese and pepper) or sugo di anatra (duck sauce). Rich dishes made with wild boar or rabbit are also prized. Wine lists tend to be heavily Tuscan-based but most are excellent, even basic wines, as Tuscans wouldn’t expect anything less. Also see Eating and Dining in Montepulciano, Pienza, Val d’Orcia and their satelite villages.

This welcoming, rustic, mid-priced inn is in the historic centre, close to the Fortezza. Simple, seasonal, regional cooking is on the menu, from the stubby pasta with breadcrumbs (pici con le briciole) to pasta with porcini mushrooms, or a bread, tomato and garlic soup (pappa al pomodoro).
Try the roast rabbit or the polenta with wild boar sauce, a regional speciality. Desserts are staples, from tiramisu to panna cotta and crème caramel.


Address: 9, vl. della Liberta', 53024 Montalcino (SI)
Tel: +39 0577 847196

This popular inn is set on an equally sought-after wine estate 4kms outside Montalcino, on the Grosseto road. Diners generally combine a meal with a wine-tasting and visit to the adjoining wine estate. The welcoming restaurant has sweeping views of the hamlet of Sant’Angelo in Colle. Menus are varied, with a creative twist on Tuscan food but can range from tasting menus to vegetarian-friendly fare.


Address: Localita di Poggio Antico 53024 Montalcino (SI)
Tel: +39 0577 848044
Web: www.poggioantico.com

If you succumb to the magic of Banfi (see Things to Do), consider dining under a vaulted ceiling in the elegant-rustic La Taverna or in the formal Sala dei Grappoli. Both restaurants are above average prices because you’re paying for sophisticated ambience, matched by an equally smooth sommelier. La Taverna feels far more Tuscan in menu and mood while Sala dei Grappoli is made for splashing out on creative cuisine and vintages such as Poggio alle Mura Riserva Brunello 2011.


Address: Castello di Poggio alle Mura, 53024 Montalcino (SI)
Tel: +39 0577 877700
Web: www.castellobanfi.com

This is a cosy, well-run inn with a rustic atmosphere and welcoming service, as well as an array of fine Montalcino red wines. Typical dishes include filling soups, rabbit dishes and pasta with porcini mushrooms. The owner prides himself on his wine list and particular prized vintages can be bought to take away. Desserts range from ricotta and honey to lemon tart and chocolate soufflé.


Address: Scale di Via Moglio 1, 53024 Montalcino (SI)
Tel: +39 0577 847150
Web: www.grappoloblu.it

Given that we’re in the home country of one of Italy’s most famous wines, it would be criminal not to shop for Brunello di Montalcino in several of our favourite vineyards. The choice reflects the complete experience - a combination of the wine, the sense of place and true hospitality.

This romantic, charmingly set wine estate is run by an eclectic family whose roots don’t lie in wine. Owner Giuseppe Sesti started out as an astronomer and opera-director before rescuing a tumbledown Tuscan hamlet. Sesti brings his eclectic knowledge of the stars to bear on the biodynamics of wine-making. The results are impressive, from the starry Brunellos to the simpler Rosso di Montalcino.


Address: Sesti Wine, Castello di Argiano, 53024 Montalcino (SI)
Tel: +39 0577 843921

Run by Laura and Marco, this small, welcoming Montalcino wine estate is noted for the owners’ enthusiasm, expertise and generosity of spirit, which is ably communicated. In addition to fine Brunello, try the versatile and affordable Rosso del Palazzone, which goes with most meals. Also on offer are estate-produced virgin olive oil, a Grappa di Brunello Riserva and a Super-Tuscan, dedicated to the owner’s parents.


Address: Localita Le Due Porte, 245, 53024 Montalcino
Tel: +39 0577 846142
Web: www.ilpalazzone.com

Hilltop Montalcino lies south of Siena, off of the SS2, about a 45-minute drive. Approaching from the north, leave the SS2 just south of Buonconvento. From the south or east, you can arrive via San Quirico d'Orcia, the heart of the Val d’Orcia, or via Grosseto. Parking in Montalcino can be tricky, particularly in the height of summer, when you might need to park outside the city walls.  More convenient is to both enter the town and park around the Fortezza, where there are several car parks. Explore the town on foot, beginning with the Fortezza. Unless you book an organized tour, you’ll need a car to visit the wine estates. As for lovely drives from Montalcino, expect a range of dreamy routes through the Val d’Orcia that combine rolling hills and hilltop villages with a mystical atmosphere.