Shopping, Parking & Getting Around

Shopping is fairly limited but still a pleasurable experience in Panzano, especially for Chianti foodstuffs and, of course, cured meats. The Sunday morning market sells everything from fruit and vegetables to cheese, roast chicken, shoes and clothes. For more choice head to neighbouring Greve.

This is a wine shop with a difference thanks to its entertaining and effervescent owner. The lasting feeling is one of meeting a friend who cares passionately about both wine and Tuscany and wishes to share his knowledge. Multilingual Stefano Salvadori is a gracious, old-school host who entertains and informs about the wine wonderland that is Chianti. Stefano offers free tastings of Tuscan wines, olive oils and vinegars, all the while waxing lyrical about Chianti wines, Slow Food, Tuscan life, traditions, art, politics, the universe and everything. The wine shop is not called `The Academy of Good Taste’ by chance. Visitors leave uplifted and usually laden down with both wine and new knowledge.

Address: Piazza Riscasoli 7
50022
Panzano in Chianti
Tel: 055 856 0159
Web: www.accademiadelbuongusto.com

This bakery produces a good range of biscuits. Its best-known are the cantucci from Panzano. These cantucci include the classic version of the crunchy almond biscuits but also variants, including ones made with pistachio, coffee or chocolate.

Address: Via Giovanni da Verrazzano 27
50022
Panzano in Chianti

In neighbouring San Donato, shop for tasty beers, as a change from wine. The beers range from the light Blanche to Belgian-style ales, all hand-crafted artisanal beers, brewed locally. Try the amusingly named `Alky Donkey.’ 

Address: Via Senese 148
San Donato in Poggio
Tavernelle Val di Pesa
50028
Tel: (+39) 338 4584387
Web: www.birrificiomath.com

In the ancient abbey of Badia a Passignano just north-west of Panzano do a wine-tasting and shop for other Antinori produce, such as the wine dynasty’s olive oil. The Bottega is a showcase to Antinori wines, along with upmarket foodstuffs from Procacci, the renowned Florentine delicatessen that is now owned by the Antinori. Tasty souvenirs include Procacci jams and truffled delicacies. You can also sample and buy wines from a range of Antinori estates, from solid Chianti Classico wines to acclaimed, pricey Super Tuscans.

Address: Via di Passignano 33
Badia a Passignano
Localita Badia di Passignano
50028
Tavernelle Val di Pesa
Tel: 055 8071278
Web: www.osteriadipassignano.com

For a complete change of scene, designer shopping fans could head to the luxury outlets in the Valdarno area. The Mall Firenze is a thirty-minute drive east from Florence, on the Pontassieve road. There’s also a direct shuttle bus there from Siena. After browsing the designer brands, end your shopping experience in the Mall’s Gucci café and restaurant.

Address: The Mall, Via Europa 8
50066
Leccio Reggello

Tel: 055 8657775
Web: www.themall.it

There is a free parking at the entrance to Panzano, which leads directly to the centro storico (medieval centre). Panzano makes more sense if approached from the north, from Greve or Florence. From this approach, you see both the appealing modern square of Piazza Gastone Bucciarelli and the array of small shops and restaurants that border the neighbouring alleys.

Coming from Florence, follow the Chiantigiana (SR 222) road as it winds around Strada in Chianti and Greve. It leads to the appealing square of Piazza Gastone Bucciarelli in the heart of hamlet. If you carry on for a kilometre and turn into via della Conca d’Oro you will find plenty of public parking and easy access to the medieval walled part of Panzano.

Coming from Siena, take the SR222 and follow signs for Castellina in Chianti and then Greve. The via della Conca d’Oro is on the left and is indicated by blue parking signs. This car park leads you directly into the centro storico.  If you try to park closer to Piazza Gastone Bucciarelli, parking is very limited so less advisable. 

Most Tuscan towns operate a strict ZTL system, a Limited Traffic Zone. This means that the Centro Storico (historic centre) is essentially closed to traffic, particularly for non-residents. Cars will need to be left outside the walls. That said, the Chianti towns are small so present far less trouble than such cities as Florence and Siena. Parking tips: for advice on individual Chianti places, please see our individual Destination guides, including those on Greve, Panzano, Radda, Gaiole and Castelnuovo Beradenga. 

Advice on ZTLs: You may see other cars crossing the ZTL boundary (Limited Traffic Zone) and assume you can proceed. Not so. The drivers crossing into the ZTL zone will probably be locals and have residents’ permits. Visitors do not so are liable to fines. Zones are monitored by cameras, so tickets are issued immediately and automatically, as soon as (and each time) the car crosses the ZTL boundary.

The Chianti can be delightful driving country. Its appeal lies in the rolling countryside, array of vineyards and olive groves, relatively quiet roads, and the mix of small medieval towns. Public transport in the Chianti is rather sporadic so car hire makes the most sense if you want to explore the area properly. Driving in the Chianti can be deeply enjoyable experience, especially with a detailed map or GPS navigator to hand. For a great day out, try a customised tour with Chianti Taxi.

Greve, the main gateway from the north, lies on the SR222, commonly known as the Chiantigiana, about 30 km south of Florence and 40 km north of Siena. From Greve, the scenic Chiantigiana meanders through the Chianti, passing through most of the typical villages. This is a charming route to take by day. At night, however, you might encounter wild boars, porcupines or deer crossing the road.

From Florence and the Chiantigiana head towards Greve, then Panzano until you reach Castellina. It is about 20 km from Greve. Or take the Florence-Siena Raccordo Autostradale highway (known as the RA) taking the San Donato in Poggio exit, and then follow the SP101, which becomes the SP76.

From Siena, leave town on the Florence-Siena Raccordo Autostradale highway (known as the RA), taking the Badesse exit for the SP 119, which becomes the SR222, the Chiantigiana. Or leave Siena and take the SR2, which becomes the SR222 until Castellina in Chianti.

By private tour: Chianti Taxi, a reliable Panzano-based transport service offers day-long private tours around the Chianti and beyond. These are customised tours that can take in everything from olive oil mills and wine estates to Pecorino farms and hand-painted ceramics. With his comfortable minivan, owner Daniele Mogni has the inside track on what you can do in the Chianti. It’s worth splashing out for a day so you can relax and drink your fill at the wine estates.
Chianti Taxi. T: (+39) 389 8160050 & www.chiantitaxi.com

The Chianti by train: this is not an easy place to reach by rail. The train service barely touches Chianti's attractions, which is part of the reason why the area is so peaceful. The main Chianti station is Castellina in Chianti, which is on the Siena-Florence line but you need to change trains at Empoli.

The Chianti by bus: Buses connect Florence to Greve and Panzano but end there. These buses often provide a more useful service than the trains but the confusing 365 bus service (T: 800373760, freephone only & www.acvbus.it) still means that bus schedules are not always convenient and also operate a limited service on Sunday. Frequent buses also connect Panzano and Greve (Piazza Trento) on a 15-minute journey.  Buses also connect Siena and Castellina: a Tiemme bus service (T: 0577 204111 & www.tiemmespa.it) operates around 7 services a day.  Buses also connect Castellina and Radda: a Tiemme bus service (T: 0577 204111 & www.tiemmespa.it). Buses also connect Siena and Gaiole: a Tiemme bus service (T: 0577 204111 & www.tiemmespa.it).

On your bike: The Chianti is a lovely place to explore by bike. The combination of romantic Tuscan scenery and challenging gravel roads is what makes it enjoyable. The cycling races in the region also attract big crowds. Whether as a spectator or a participant, L’Eroica is worth following. This renowned amateur event that allows cyclists from around the world to experience the region while riding classic bikes.